COTTON

Organic Cotton:
Organic cotton is grown without pesticides or chemical fertilizers, relying instead on methods with minimum ecological impact. It is used to manufacture everything from handkerchiefs to kimono robes. Different levels of certification exist, but at a minimum, a crop must be grown in soil that has been chemical-free for at least three years

Pima Cotton:
One of the best cotton in the world and ranked right behind the Egyptian variant, it features long, luxurious fibers used in high end towels, garments, sheets and more. It originated in the South-west US and was first grown by Pima Indians, but it is now grown in several parts around the world.

Giza Cotton:
The best quality and longest staple cotton in the world. Although historically it came from Egypt, today 'Egyptian' cotton is also produced in other countries. It still complies with the original Egyptian standards of quality. This grade of cotton boasts of the longest and strongest fibers.

Sea Island Cotton:
A small bushy tree grown on islands of the Caribbean and off the Atlantic coast of the southern United States, it yields cotton with unusually long silky fibers. Sea Island cotton is one of the most valuable and costly cotton varieties. It is known for its silky feel, luster and long 1 ¾ inch staple.

Mercerized Cotton:
It is cotton yarn or fabric which has been put through a series of processes, primarily to increase lustre.Yarn in its twisted state still has a very fine covering of tiny fiber ends (fuzz). This fuzz is removed by passing the yarn through a controlled heated atmosphere termed singeing resulting in a cleaner surface. Mercerized cotton absorbs more water and dye than non-mercerized cotton.

India Soft Cotton:
This is the normal cotton grown in India but it is picked only after being left to mature for 180 days in the field. This maturing process dramatically improves the quality of the yarn and increases its strength.

YARN         

Meaning of Yarn:
Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibers, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and ropemaking. 

Warp and Weft:
Warp: the vertical yarn running through the fabric.
Weft: the horizontal yarn running through the fabric

Yarn Count:

• A numerical designation of yarn size indicating the relationship of length to weight.
• The thickness of the yarn is measured as Counts. Higher the count, finer the fabric.
• Yarns are made in different counts like 20's, 40's, 60's, 80's, 100's, 120's, 140's, 170's, 200's etc.
• Yarn prices are based on thickness. Higher the counts, higher the prices

Cotton Ply:

• Plying is a process used to create a strong, balanced yarn. It is done by taking two or more strands of yarn and twisting together, in the opposite direction than in which they were spun. When just the right amount of twist is added, it creates a balanced yarn, which is a yarn with no tendency to twist upon itself. A two ply is thus a yarn plied from two strands; a three ply is one from three strands, and so on. Single and two ply are most common in construction of textile.

WEAVING

Plain:
In plain weave each weft (horizontal) yarn passes over one warp (vertical) yarn, under one warp yarn and so on until it reaches the other side. It then returns to the starting side in exactly the same sequence.

Twill:

It is made by passing the weft threads over one warp thread and then under two or more warp threads
• Twill is a type of fabric woven with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs.
• It is made by passing the weft (horizontal) threads over one warp (vertical) thread and then under two or more warp threads and so on, with a "step" or offset between rows that creates the characteristic diagonal pattern. Because of this structure, twills generally drape well. Twill fabric is used for chino and denim.

Herringbone:

• This type of weaving is also called as 'double twill'. The herringbone weave has ribs on both sides, making the pattern similar to the bones of a herring fish arranged as inverted Vs.

Poplin:

• The name 'Poplin' originates from the silk weave that was used for papal robes in 17th century France. Nowadays, Poplin is usually with a thick weft (horizontal) that gives the fabric a ribbed look. It also makes the fabric extremely soft, lightweight and gentle on the skin.

Oxford:

• Oxford weave fabric consists of two, thin warp (vertical) yarns woven to every soft, thicker yarn in the warp (horizontal) direction. The unbalanced construction of the fabric causes the thin yarns to break and leave tiny holes. It is fine, soft and lightweight.

Satin:

• Satin weave is a more flexible type of weave than the plain weave. In this weave construction, the interlacing of the threads are arranged in such a way that the face of the cloth is covered with the warp (vertical) yarn or filling yarn and no twill line is distinguishable. It is made by "floating" warp or weft yarns across many yarns to bring them to the surface. This weave is characterized by a sheen on the outside and a dull look on the inside.

Jacquard:

• A jacquard is characterized by interesting patterns and designs on the surface of the fabric. The term refers to the added control mechanism that automates the patterning. Jacquard looms are fitted with harnesses which facilitate control over individual warp (vertical) threads, rather than groups of warp threads as in the case of non-jacquard looms. The Jacquard looms are capable of weaving much more complex and sophisticated patterns.

Leno:

• A leno weave is characterized by alternating tight and looser construction. Warp (vertical) yarns twisted together in pairs with the weft (horizontal) yarns inserted between each warp yarn in the pair. Thus, the weft yarns in a leno weave have very little movement in the warp direction. Leno weaves are frequently used in loosely woven fabrics to reduce the possibility of yarn slippage.

Dobby:

• A dobby weave is characterized by raised designs on the surface of the fabric. The fabric, often of a complex construction, is woven on a dobby machine by selectively raising some held shafts containing warp (vertical) threads and selectively depressing others.

KNITS

Single Jersey:

• The basic single knit construction (T- shirt fabric) with the appearance of tiny 'Vs' on the face of the fabric and wavy courses on the back of the fabric. Jersey knit fabrics have similar stretch properties both horizontally and vertically.

Rib:

• This double-knit fabric draws some Wales (longitudinal running threads) to the front and others to the back for a ridge effect. Ribs have a higher stretch and recovery than most knits and they are used for trim and body goods. They lie flat and do not curl at the edges like jersey knits. Rib knits have a greater elasticity in the width direction than in the warp direction.

Interlock:

• It is similar to rib knits except the columns of Wales (longitudinal running threads) are directly behind each other. Plain stitches appear on both sides of the fabric and are arranged in such a way that the back of any plain stitch lies directly behind it. Interlock knits are smoother, more stable and can provide better insulation than rib knits.

WASHES

Enzyme or Bio Wash:

• Enzyme or Bio-wash is a technique involving the use of enzyme to produce a moderate level of abrasion without the use of pumice stone. It results in providing the fabric a desired softer feel.

Silicon Wash:

• Silicon Wash provides a desired smooth and slippery feel to the fabric.

Finish

Ultra Violet:

• This finish minimizes UV penetration through the fabric. It also helps the fabric resist fading. The UV protection factor is measured in SPFs.

Antibacterial Finish:

• Antibacterial finish gives bacterio-static properties to cotton by inhibiting the growth of bacteria and hence undesirable body odour.

Moisture Wicking:

• Wicking means the passage of fluids like perspiration along or through a textile material so that it dries up quickly due to evaporation. To the knit fabric, we add a layer of surface coating, so that this wicking capillary action is induced in the cloth. The coating is done on the side that touches the skin.

Teflon Finish:  

• A Teflon Finish protects fabrics from both water based and oil based spills. It consists of a fluoro chemical that forms a barrier in molecular scale around the fiber and repels water and oil based liquids. A protective layer of this finish is applied to the outside of the fabric. Liquid spills beads up and rolls off. Dry soil can be brushed off. Detergent and water and stains can be washed off easily.

Mercerizing:

• Cotton yarn in its twisted state still has a very fine covering of tiny fiber ends (fuzz). This fuzz is removed by passing the fabric through a controlled heated atmosphere termed singeing (gas fired in the past, electric more currently) resulting in a cleaner surface. Finally, it is treated with caustic sodato flatten and open the twist. This process is used to increase the lustre of the cloth.

Wrinkle-free:

• This is a temperature-based process applied to the fabric to ensure a relative immunity from wrinkles. The wrinkle free finish is obtained by cross-linking cotton. Permanent press gives cotton some elastic and resiliency properties. Such cross-linked cotton can recover from deformation stresses and thus wrinkles will not form.

Liquid ammonia moisture cure:

• This treatment is administered in vats of liquid ammonia to improve the tensile strength and abrasion resistance, as well as dimensional stability of cotton. It also provides wrinkle-free qualities.